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General Flashlight Discussion / Re: Which flashlight would suit me?
« Last post by Gaya42 on June 17, 2018, 06:00:19 AM »
Oh sorry, my budget is.. under $60, I think??
General Flashlight Discussion / Re: Which flashlight would suit me?
« Last post by bykfixer on June 17, 2018, 02:10:07 AM »
Hello Gaya.

If you've got the dough, they got nearly every thing these days.

But seriously, how much would you consider spending?

Welcome to the site.
General Flashlight Discussion / Which flashlight would suit me?
« Last post by Gaya42 on June 16, 2018, 06:09:01 PM »
I want a flashlight with about 800 lumens of maximum power which I can charge via USB. And I want a twisting mechanism for dimming. And I don't want those strobe, sos and similar features.
Does such flashlight exist?
Thanks in advance...
New Member Introductions / Re: Hello from Sydney, Australia!
« Last post by bykfixer on June 15, 2018, 01:38:14 AM »
Welcome to TFF
I did make te move to LED.  Quite happy.  The light is more uniform.

As for soldering, it was very much another lifetime.  I don't own much stuff anymore, including electronics and soldering equipment.  The broken flashlight is one-piece, and the bad connection is at the bottom.  I'd have to cut it open to access the problem, and that would destroy the flashlight.

Thanks for your thoughts!
Flashlight Reviews / Review of the Olight X9R (Full Review)
« Last post by OutdoorsIQ on June 13, 2018, 06:41:36 AM »
Hi Guys

I'm new to the forum and have recently started doing flashlight review as a bit of a hobby. Every so often and where we (managed to rope the Mrs into this) can, we also do giveaways as a give back to the community who supports us! We have a giveaway for this review if you are interested... details are in the video description - Good luck for those who enter.

Here's the link to my latest review of the Olight X9R:

Hope you enjoy!

For those who like reading:

This isn’t our first time handling the X9R. Two months ago, Olight Australia gave us the X9R prototype to gauge our thoughts. They touted the X9R as OLight’s biggest and brightest flashlight. With our prototype video receiving almost 300 comments and 125 likes, it was clear to us that our IQ’ers were excited.

Today is the day that we finally bring you the X9R in all it’s glory. With almost weekly messages asking if we know the release date, this has certainly been a much anticipated flashlight.

If you are not familiar with the X9R, this is Olight’s mega-flashlight offering with 25,000 lumens of output. Weighing in at 1.8kg or 4 pounds this isn’t for the faint hearted. Though Olight has thoughtfully included a shoulder strap in the box which allows for much more comfortable carry.

The design is well thought out, with a rocketship-esk body, the asthetics are quite pleasing. The machining and anodization are perfect with no flaws or sharp edges. This is impressive when you consider the level of detail that Olight has gone to with the X9R. Though perhaps this is to be expected from a flashlight costing 5 times as much as a regular flashlight.

The X9R reminds me of a Chris Reeve Sebenza, a popular grail knife amongst pocket knife collectors. If you look at the finer details of a Chris Reeve Sebenza, you can appreciate its tight tolerances and attention to detail. The X9R is much the same, the closer you look, the more you will discover. 

With all this being said, one question remains. Why not just buy the Imalant DX80 which is not only cheaper, but brighter at 32,000 lumens. Well, the simple answer is - maybe you should. The DX80 has its own innovations and higher output. Though if you’re the sort of person who carries a Sebenza and wears a mechanical watch, then maybe you would appreciate the quality and detail of the X9R more. Putting the X9R side by side with DX80, the X9R appears brighter, though this is likely a result of its much larger and deeper reflectors allowing the X9R to throw further.

When you spend this much dole on a flashlight, you would expect an equally robust carrying case. This is exactly what Olight has included with their waterproof, dustproof and shockproof X9R carrying case. Upon opening the case, you find a 2amp wall charger, 1.5amp car charger, shoulder strap, anti-roll ring, instruction manual and the X9R. All the accessories and the X9R are neatly laid out in laser cut foam. This is certainly a nice inclusion by Olight.

Changing the battery is as simple as connecting the included power pack, with the battery indicator showing the charge progress. Olight has also indicated that spare batteries will be made available in the future.

Simply put, the interface is what we know and love from Olight. With shortcuts to turbo, low and strobe modes. Improving on the classic Olight interface, Olight has gone one step further by providing an innovative dashboard showing both the output and battery levels. The X9R also includes proximity sensors, which will automatically dim the flashlight when close to nearby objects.

 The X9R includes eight light modes and one flashing mode. This includes mode 1 at 200 lumens, mode 2 at 400 lumens, mode 3 at 800 Lumens, mode 4 at 1,600 lumens, mode 5 at 3,200 lumens, mode 6 at 6,400 lumens, mode 7 at 12,800 lumens and mode 8 at 25,000 lumens. The X9R will stepdown on both of its highest modes, including at 10 minutes for mode 7 and 3 minutes for mode 8.

To switch on the X9R press the side button once. This will switch on the flashlight in the previously selected mode. Pressing the side button again will switch off the flashlight. To cycle through the 8 light modes, press and hold the side button while the flashlight is on. Pressing and holding the side button from off will access the lowest mode while double tapping the side button from either on or off will access the turbo mode. The X9R also features a lockout mode, which can be accessed by holding the side button for more than 2 seconds from off.

The X9R is really something special, from its 25,000 of output to its sleek lines and user interface. The X9R appears to be a solid option for both professional operators and enthusiasts alike.

A huge thank you to Olight Australia for allowing us to evaluate their new X9R.

If you enjoyed this review, we would appreciate if you could also subscribe to our YouTube channel. We would be grateful for any comment on our YouTube video too! =)

Thank you your support - OutdoorsIQ
New Member Introductions / Re: Hello from Sydney, Australia!
« Last post by SG-1 on June 13, 2018, 05:40:37 AM »
Welcome to the forum OutdoorsIQ. 

Besides flashlights, I have a collection of Cold Steel Knives.
New Member Introductions / Hello from Sydney, Australia!
« Last post by OutdoorsIQ on June 13, 2018, 05:30:57 AM »
Hi Guys

I have been a flashaholic for as long as I can remember. I also love knives and anything outdoor related! ;D

More recently and as a hobby, I started up my own video reviews of flashlight! I managed to rope the Mrs in and I think I may have converted her too. She particularly loves the smaller ones for her handbag. Every so often, I find missing flashlights from my collection... they appear again when it needs recharging!

I am not that up to date (or I guess out of date) with the incandescent bulbs. I left the halogen and Krypton long ago for the LED lights.

Probably the best source on this forum for information about any of the older lights would be "byfixer" (no quotations) as he collects and restores many of the older to really old lights (antique).

As far as the voltages you are talking about from  for the LED "bulbs" , I don't know of anything that might fit the bill there. There may be something out there that I am not aware of , but as a standard you have 3v , 6v , and 12v LED emitters , although many of those can be pushed well beyond their listed maximum output , or lumens , with the right know how and the right modifications. They need a "driver" and a MCPCB (Metal Core Printed Circuit Board) made for the certain emitter that you might be using for a given light. There are also many different types of drivers out there now , from the FET (near direct drive) to the buck drivers , constant current drivers and boost drivers , but that is something that takes time to try and explain

With the newer lights you also have many types of ways they can be wired with 4 cells. For instance the 4 cells you speak of could in in series , in parallel , in a 2s / 2p or a 4p and so gets confusing and that is all a whole other story though.

Some drivers for these newer LED lights are made to accept the standard Alkaline and NiMH cells , as well as the Lithium-ion cells in the same light , but the majority are made for the Lithium-ion cells only. The ones that can use either chemistry cells have a special driver in them specifically designed for that purpose. You also need to be aware that the Lithium "Primary" cells are different than the Lithium-Ion cells. The lithium primary have a higher energy density than lithium ion batteries. Lithium Primary cells use lithium metal as their anode unlike lithium ion batteries that use a number of other materials to form their anode. The lithium primary is also a one time use cell like the alkalines are , where the lithium-ion can be recharged many , many times over. One other point that even the long time users of lithium-ion cells (including myself) always need to remember , is that the lithium-ion cells are much more unstable and dangerous (when handled improperly) than the standard Alkaline and NiMH cells. With that being said , at the same time , the lithium-ion , if used right and proper care taken , are pretty safe to have and to use as long as you don't get too complacent and forget the safety rules of the cells , such as how to charge , how to store , proper voltages (minimum and maximum) and the list goes on.
There is a very good safety write up in the BLF forum if you have the time or want to read a little about that...........

As far as throwing away the bulb or the light you have , since it sounds like you are very practiced in soldering , could you maybe get the part that is broken out of the light and solder it back together to get that light working again?

I would suggest either way that you move to the world of LED lights though , as there are so many out there now that are really just mind boggling when you start looking at the output compared to any of the older incandescent lights. The Maglite was king in its time , but now even some of the tiny AA sized lights (14500 in lithium cells) will give you as much as the old Maglites were doing. When you get into the 18650 and 26650 lights that are out there now days and start looking at 300 yards , to over a mile of throw from a few of them.......
Well I think you would be happy with the move to be honest.
Flashlight Reviews / Review : Nitecore MT21C 1*18650 Tilt Head
« Last post by old4570 on June 10, 2018, 01:48:13 AM »

Nitecore MT21C Product page @ Nitecore

 User Manual

Sent for review by Nitecore .


Performance :

 Ultra Low - 3 Lumens

 Low  - 86 Lumens

 Medium - 311 Lumens

 High - 645 Lumens

 Turbo - 1000+ Lumens 

  Once again performance on Turbo is well above the advertised performance by Nitecore , possibly understated to allow for lower performance batteries . There is little point giving current figures as they don't match the light output , once again the safety features built into the light to detect when things are not quite right with the battery . In fact it really boosts my confidence in Nitecore products when they take safety so seriously .


 90 Degree Adjustable Head :

 Actually there are some 5 positions for the head . Straight ahead to 90 degrees ( 3 positions in-between ) .   There is a spring loaded ball that sits in indents machined into the head mount . I don't see any wires , so either the spring loaded ball carries current or current is passed through some contacts on either side of the head where the mount is in the main body . ( Or both ) It looks to be an ingenious method and so far I have not encountered any issues what so ever . I have resisted posting a review for a while now as I wanted to use the light as much as possible to see if there were any problems and I have none to report .


  Tail Magnet :

  The MT21C has a relatively strong magnet in the tailcap which allows the MT21C to be mounted to just about anything a magnet might be attracted to from car bodies to rain pipes ( Pictured ) . This is a very handy feature as it allows the MT21C to be mounted under a car hood and the head angled for the best possible use . One sort of gets the feeling the MT21C is targeted for possible trades people or anyone looking for a work / emergency light . One that is actually capable of performing the task with little effort , certainly the MT21C is capable of producing a lot of light and putting it where needed .


  UI - User Interface :


 Battery State ( Voltage ) : With the light off , a quick press of the side switch will activate battery state ( MT21C will report battery voltage ) . There is a blue LED built into the side switch ( around it ) . If the battery is at say 4.1 volt then the LED will flash 4 times , give a pause and flash one more time . So to verify that the light reports voltages near enough to the truth , I popped in a battery that was 3.89 volts . I got 3 flashes a pause and 9 more flashes after to report 3.9 volts for the battery state .

 Turning the light on and off :  Press and hold the side switch for approximately one second . The light always starts in Ultra Low mode .

 Modes :  Ultra Low > Low > Medium > High > Turbo .. Turn the light on , once the light is on a quick press of the side switch will take you to the next light level . ( UL > L > M > H > T > UL )

 Hidden  Modes :  Strobe > Beacon > SOS ..  Turn the light on , a quick triple press of the side switch will activate Strobe . A quick press of the side switch will take you to the next mode . ( Strobe > Beacon > SOS > Strobe ) .. To exit the flashy modes press and hold the side switch , this will turn the light off . ( There is no other way to exit the flashy modes )

 Sort Cut to Turbo :  Press and hold the side switch till Turbo activates , as soon as Turbo turns on let go the switch .

 Momentary Turbo :  Press and hold the side switch till Turbo activates , Nitecore say's to hold for 2.5seconds after Turbo activates but my sample turned off after 1 second .  ( Momentary )



 Design and Use :


 Over the last week or so the MT21C has grown on me , at first I was a little hesitant about liking it because it was - different . But in all honesty the MT21C has done nothing but impress me . If you were say a motor mechanic or just a handy man then I would seriously recommend you take a long hard look at the MT21C . It is a relatively small light that can be put almost anywhere on a car and put light where you need it . It would most likely also fit any headband out there designed to be used with a single 18650 light . I found the wire hanger built into the head an interesting idea . Get a ping pong ball , cut a hole in it and you have a quick and simple lantern ( Been there done that - and it works ) .


 Conclusion :

 Quite simply another fantastic flashlight from Nitecore and this one seems to be clearly intended for people that do stuff and need light . Not sure I should call it a work light but it does seem intended for such . Especially as it seem so well suited for say some one like a motor mechanic . In no way or shape am I saying it cant be a camping or walking light ( I have taken it walking quite a few times now ) or that it can't be EDC . It does everything well , perhaps not the best possible at every task but it does more things well than most other lights . It has a tilting head , a magnet in the tailcap and puts out a lot of light for such a small package ( I measured a lot over 1000 Lumens ) .

No detectable PWM

Parasitic Drain = Yes 5mA or less ( Varies from undetectable by my MM to 5mA )

Build quality is excellent

Threads / machining / anodizing all excellent

Hidden flashy modes ( ++ )

Fits even long 18650

No rattles or funny noises when shaken

Light levels are good

A good concept


  Negatives :  Now with a separate head ( small ) from the body one has to wonder how it will handle heat . We are into the start of Winter here in Oz and it has been very cool ( Single digit temps at night ) and to date I have had no issue with Turbo , though I have not run Turbo for more than 30 seconds keeping in mind the design of the MT21C . Also one must remember that there is Thermal protection , which I have as yet not activated / experienced possibly because of the cool to cold evenings we have had . As long as you are sensible I simply don't see a problem . Also with the head pointed straight , there is contact between the head and body which will transfer heat .

 I did a quick test on High 645 Lumens :  Room temp 20 degrees Celsius . ( Head pointed straight )

2 Minutes - 28 deg C

3 Minutes - 29.6 deg C

4 Minutes - 31 deg C

5 Minutes - 31.3 deg C

6 Minutes - 32 deg C

7 Minutes - 32.5 deg C

8 Minutes - 33.1 deg C

9 Minutes - 32.5 deg C

10 Minutes - 33 deg C

 So the test was done with the head pointed straight and this contacting the rest of the body . Now with Turbo doing almost double the Lumen of high we should expect more heat , and as with any small light it pays to use the highest possible output sparingly . I don't see the tilting head as a problem , or a flaw . What I see is a light with a lot of potential and one that does what it was designed to do . If your looking for a light to run at 1000 + Lumens for extended periods then obviously the MT21C is not the light you should be looking at .

 On the other hand , if you are looking for a light capable of doing a lot of things well . A light you can take to work or use to work on your car ( or anything else ) then , perhaps you owe it to yourself to consider the MT21C .  Keeping in mind what this light was designed to do I can only give it a score of 10 out of 10 . > Youtube video


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